Wednesday, July 27, 2016

Hiking, Life style farms, and Christianity in Hokitika


New Zealand is a hiker’s wet dream. I’ve been remarkably impressed with the infrastructure and sheer number of trails. I don’t think the North Island could be this crazy (nor does it have the reputation that the South does) but it seems like every town I stop in has an information center with no less than 20 legitimate day hikes within a short driving and sometimes even walking distance. Not having a car has prevented me from exploring to the degree I would have liked but I still got my fair share of natural wonder in here.

After spending less than one day in Wanaka I met yet another 19-year-old German traveling New Zealand for the year. Max was mature for his age and we quickly hit it off. See previous post’s photos on this story. He convinced me to do an epic overnight winter hike to Mount Brewster as he had some camping gear and all I needed was some gators to protect against the snow and a warm sleeping bag. I cancelled a very short-term WWOOF to do this but it was definitely worth it. Seeing the mountains all around the silent and beautiful hut where we stayed was amazing. Even at midnight the full moon gave the dreamy snow-capped peaks visibility.

After a quick one-day wood chopping WWOOF experience in Hari Hari, I moved on to Hokitika, a town whose name I could hardly pronounce but was the site of my next WWOOF farm. Despite this place actually having a small life-style farm, my work consisted of construction tasks on the nearby campground that one of the two sons of the family was building. It kind of brought me back to my months in Canada just after graduating from Macalester where I worked in Northern Ontario for Project Beaver. The work was hard but interesting and I loved driving the tractor and using the fork to move palettes around.

I think because farming has played such an integral part of New Zealand’s history a lot of family’s today dream of having farms. Land is becoming increasingly expensive and the work is hard, which causes many families to quit shortly after they start. I think real farmer’s also can find it annoying, but in Hokitika, the two brothers and their own large families along with the grandparents make it work. Everybody has day jobs but contribute together to run the farm. They have a number of pigs, cows, and chickens and their biggest concern is being able to eat their own meat.

Derick and Diana are devout Christians in a country where religion does not play a strong role. They prayed before every meal, brought me to church, and asked me lots of questions about Judaism. The more churches I visit in different countries the more similarities I notice. It’s not a type of “tourism” I think I’ll want to do more of. It’s not that the experience was bad, it just seems shallow and less interesting than Judaism and I don’t often hear a lot of insightful analysis on Biblical stories. Instead, I just hear praise for Jesus over and over and about how he died for our sins and how no matter how I live my life or how good I am I have no chance at redemption unless I except Jesus into my life. Why would I accept Jesus if I don’t even really believe in the story of Moses and the rest of it?  


I spent 5 days in Hokitika and enjoyed my experience working in construction. The family was interesting and different. They were one of the only families I observed in New Zealand that doesn’t seem to watch as much T.V. as Americans do. They made their own bread, used raw milk, made their own cheese, dried clothing on an old fashioned NZ rack (see photo below), ate their own meat, made their own dishwashing detergent, and bought most everything in bulk. Like other houses I’ve stayed in NZ they also heated their house 100% with the coal burning fireplace. This is to say, despite the moderately temperature climate of NZ, it’s very cold in the South Island winter in the mornings and at nights. I’ve gotten way too used to central air.

Monday, July 25, 2016

Goat is the Most Beloved Meat in New Zealand


Wanaka Movie Theater, one of the coolest theaters I've ever been to

Typical Queenstown personal pizzas start around $25

Even breakfast there starts around $12-$15

Beautiful Lake Wanaka

Young German companion Max, wise beyond his years, hiking up to the Mount Brewster Hut for a cold winter night's stay

The New Zealand Department of Conservation does an amazing job with their huts

Hut from the outside, had to make our own tracks to get in

Hiking back down from Brewster Hut through the Southern Alps

New Zealand is an expensive country to visit, but it’s important to keep in mind just how isolated it is. It makes sense that things would be expensive when you consider: 1) They don’t tip (I am a big fan of this and think the U.S. should start not tipping as well) 2) Taxes are included 3) The population of both the North and the South Island together is less than 4.5 million so the market is relatively small and 4) The minimum wage is $15.25, which even adjusted for American dollars (also makes things “look” more expensive here) is still almost $11 an hour.

Queenstown was particularly expensive and while my brother had told me it was like the Vail or Aspen of New Zealand, I was still shocked by many of the prices (see pictures above). I didn’t even consider skiing although if the conditions had been better I may have just sucked it up and paid the $200 or so for equipment, transport, and ski ticket. Despite this, I enjoyed Queenstown very much and think if you have the time it’s worth going to both the thrill/outdoor sport capital cities of Queenstown and Wanaka (a younger sibling of sorts in some ways although much less developed).

What’s hard about prices here is that sometimes you just want some cheap garbage food, especially after a night out drinking, but you don’t want McDonalds or some other crappy American fast food chain. Solution: Late night convenience store “pies.” Pies are a big thing here and usually include some sort of meat and look like one of those American Chicken Pot Pie T.V. dinners. When in doubt for food (or money) you can usually find one, for maybe only $4-6. Add a coffee and you’ve got a classic NZ railway station meal.

After one night out in Queenstown I found myself with a new female friend at one such convenience stores after 1 AM trying to choose which pie to buy. At this very moment two large, young, drunk Kiwi goons came in talking loudly and keen to intervene in our pie hunt. One of them insisted we buy the goat pie. I’ve had goat in many countries and usually find it too gamy. After politely declining the Kiwi became aggressive and argumentative about our need to try the goat pie. “Goat is the most beloved meat in New Zealand and most consumed meat in the world.” He repeated this point several times. Actually, this is true although by volume more is consumed but this was beside the point. After we politely refuse one more time, he grabbed my friend’s hand and put it on the pie and told her to take it, at which point I had to step in and tell him “no means no” with a totally straight face. We eventually chose our non-threatening non-goat pies and ran out of the store fully intact. This is the sort of random thing about visiting a foreign place you laugh about later but probably forget about…unless you have a blog.

Friday, July 22, 2016

A Hostile Life

Every day I meet Germans and Frenchies. I have no idea why there are so many of them here and so few Americans or British given our language (and colonial) connections. The typical WWOOFer, as my first host John described it, is a “19-year-old German girl.” This is also the typical demographic of a backpacker, of which there are many here and of course the Europeans have often been traveling for close to a year and have or will explore every location on both island. Many have also worked here, WWOOFed, traveled, or did some combination and they are useful people to talk to along my path.

In some ways I do feel a bit unique here but going in, I was a bit weary with my age and the whole backpacking and hostel thing. I’ve felt for a while now, much like Halloween when you are 19, that I’m getting too old for this sort of travel. In some towns hostels are the only affordable option and the difference can be crazy - $25/night or $150/night at a hotel with nothing in-between so I decided to continue living youthfully. As it turns out this trip has surprised me.

At one point, I found myself going out in Queenstown with a really fun group of people from all around the world in the 18-30 age range and in many different places in life. While I was still the grandpa (just by a little) in the group many of these youngsters were pretty mature and it didn’t feel weird. That is, until I found myself dancing next to Martine, the sweet 18-year-old Dutch girl who washes the sheets at the hostel. I realized she was almost the same age as some of my students who, just a few months back in France had cowered away and laughed awkwardly when I had joined nearby on a dance floor with some other teachers.  But I recognize it’s a different context now and it’s cool that you can travel solo and meet people like this.

On the other hand, hosteling today is different than it used to be and in my opinion worse. Wi-fi is the gold we all search for, perhaps even more important than clean bathrooms for some people. It’s also super pricey here and I am constantly reminded when I travel abroad about MB’s and how much data different things use and how video is not an option unless you have free Wi-Fi. Many hostels in fact do offer free wi-fi but it’s also a big down side. It’s a weird thing when everyone from around the world is just sitting eating a snack or their dinner in a common space not talking to each other while they stare at a screen as I saw in a few hostels. This has made being a solo traveler a bit harder but I usually find a way to get peoples’ attention and drag their head face away from their screen. That is, unless of course my head is stuck on mine.


The Remarkables, ski mountains around Queenstown

Queenstown bike trails are beautiful and endless  
Night falls on Queenstown

View from Hostel

New German friends, hiking Ben Lamonde
Not hitchhiking - http://www.airwakatipu.com/gps-tracks/4w9u3o5i scenic ride from Queenstown to Milford Sound. Trip highlight!
Small Propeller Train to Milford Sound


Mitre Peak in Milford Sound, the one on all the brochures. Due to an oncoming storm we only had 20 minutes there and the cruise portion of the trip was cancelled. Still was a blast


The View from high up in our plane coming back to Queenstown

Lounge at Butterfli Lodge Hostel

Maria from Germany and me hiking up the massive Ben Lamonde

Gondola above Queenstown and Luge Trail