Going Native

This expression is used for white people going to 3^rd world (or sorry “Global South” for those politically correct readers) who live without 1^st World (“Global North”) amenities, eat the local food, adopt local customs, and live generally simpler lives. It’s offensive for a number of reasons but also, as it can be the case with offensive things, is somewhat hilarious. Think about your best friend, your father, really anyone, deciding to give up wireless internet, wearing some feathers or local dress, subsisting on a regular diet of cassava and strange local plants, and learning a language that may have clicks and other sounds that are so incredibly foreign you wouldn’t even be able to guess which side of the planet it’s coming from.

People talk about Peace Corps volunteers “going native” and moving to the bush. I am not in the Peace Corps but in my latest East Africa adventure, I find myself “going native.” Of course I’m being facetious but my new situation is quite different than what I’ve experienced up to this point. I am only a 7-8 min. walk from the main road and about 30 minutes of walking from the main city of Gulu population 150,000; however, I’m surrounded by huts (I myself am in a non-self-contained house), have no running (or hot) water, often have no electricity due to frequent outages, no Western bathroom, no gas stove (I’m going to buy one though), and there’s plenty of goats, animals, and small African children in my backyard.

As if I was in a movie, Mama Basil is my elderly lady roommate, one of my co-worker’s moms who speaks very little English and probably finds me very strange. We don’t interact too much (or haven’t yet I should say). For example, last night I went off to go see some live music in town as she sit in the dark with just a small candle listening to the radio. I’m sure I’ll have more to say about her later.

Mama Basil’s sister’s child also either lives there or is just always around (not sure which yet) and is terrified of me. It’s funny how small children here are either fascinated by white skin and want to touch you or can be terrified and run away in fright when you get within a few feet.

Layibi is actually a very peaceful and pretty place to live and I am happy to be living simpler, if only for a few months while I get into some more sales and field based work from Fenix.